Its all about bitchin' tone, and here is where i bitch about it.

Friday, July 7, 2017



I changed some things from the other prototype and really dig it. clips will be up in the next 48 hours.

Great standalone fuzz in the Rivera Knucklehead. Add it in front of the Rockerverb it thickens it into another whole depth of hell with the OD.

This is similar to my other bazz fusses, just more cojones. i tweaked it a bit, put it into a proper enclosure and ADDED A SWITCH!!!

paypal $25 to shipping is INCLUDED in that price for the continental US.

maybe more will be coming maybe more of the same, maybe different.

any questions, ask!

Cheers!  Trashed.

its gone! cheers! more coming!!!

2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints

Sup' Gearwhores!

I apologize that I haven't been around for a little bit. I got married, so there is now a Mrs. Trashed, and I caught a keeper. I have realllly busy

This is going to be more of just an update with a few thoughts. I will start typing and see where it goes (which is something I never actually do).

I am going to start off with noise constraints. This is that first time I have ever had that even as a consideration.

I have been playing the Rivera Knucklehead a lot recently, and it is one of the best pedal platforms I have worked with for a long time. Its sitting on a Randall cab with a pair of T75's and a 15" Eminence legend  all in one box. Overall it is a nice setup. its odd miking it though I would love to get both a 15" on one track and a 12"on as well. haven't done it yet. will get around to it. May be weird to mix them together but I will get to it one of these days.

Right now I am running a pedalbaord to it that is quite odd (I will get some pics of the rig up) regarding the amp it is. but I am using a CMATMODS Brownie, with everything around 3 o'clock, into a Fulltone Fulldrive MOSFET. The trick for this scenario is to run some gain on the Fulldrive, and turn the volume way down, that lowers the volume of the Brownie a lot and it can go into the rest of the rig and be quiet. took a bit to figure out, but here is what i have.

When the Fulldrive is on the volume gets cut for night playing, kick it off, i get the 'Marshall in the box' or 'brown sound' in the front end at a nice day volume. (note that this is all on the clean channel).

***I am considering building some very simple that would have a pot and some other passive (or maybe 9v) components that would just turn the volume. small box, just to change the volume that you can step on to solve things like this. IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN ANYTHING LIKE THIS LET ME KNOW! If there is interest i will get it going faster  AND IF THERE IS SOME ACTION ON IT I WILL GET A BUNCH OUT CHEAP like i did the bazz fusses.***

The OD channel on the Rivera is sweet too, but it does need to go too loud for midnight playing to be enjoyable. but daytime has seen use.

Alright guys, time to get back with noise constraints. you can also put something in the FX loop (if you have one) to lower the level of the out-put of the box or even something like a MXR 10 band and drop the volume slider.

*I must say MXR has disapointed me yet again. I have owned two 10 band EQ's and the second one broke just like the first. Screw MXR for me, especially because i couldn't figure out how to get them working and my father also made no headway with them. MXR wants something stupid like $60 and me to send it to them. Sorry MXR, no thanks on that. I can get a used one for that. I may have to go with Boss, but i am NOT a Boss fan in general. However i dont' think that is any secret to most of you.*

Also regarding noise restraints, often times you need less gain on your amp than you think if you throw an overdrive out front. and DON'T SCOOP YOUR MIDS. That will make the whole scenario worse.

I am thinking about building an isocab for recording, but that will be a bit.

Well... this is a kind of a fill in thread for the last few weeks , as you imagine i haven't had as much time lately. Everything will start back normal next week.

Cheers and thanks for the support!


Thursday, April 27, 2017

2017-04-27 THANKS For the SUPPORT!

Thank you to all of my loyal followers. This is a celebratory post.

I have sold out of my prototypes, THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH.

I will be placing and order soon for more and different components.

I am going to still stick to my
'bazz fuss' circuit, and within the next few weeks will have a more refined version out, to sell to further fund my activities.

The next of the lineup with the bazz fuss with a few tweaks, will have a switch. Switches are not cheap (>$5 bulk) for something I would trust to put in your hands.

Prices will stay down through the next series of prototypes as far as selling more at cost, but the switch is going to jack them up to around $17 as a ballpark for the next series of prototypes. At the time, if you don't want the switch i will still do the $10 without the switch, just let me know.

AND finally, there will be some surprises on the way. I am not going to reveal those yet.


Sincere thank you to all of you who read and especially the people who have purchased.

I am honored and humbled,

Derek 'Trashed' Anderson

Thursday, April 13, 2017

2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!

 This one will get some of you going for sure.

So today exists these wonderful pedals, that interface with computers. TC Electronics I am looking straight at you.

YEAH that is right, TC Electronics I am watching YOU.

But Trashed, "The Toneprint gives me so much versatility!"

To that I respond, "I certainly agree, BUT... (yeah big but),"

But Trashed "What is the but? I like mine a lot?"

In 10 years, all of my Malekko, Cmatmods, Fulltone, MI, Pigtronix, ZVEX,etc. pedals will be alive and the same, just as there are today.

In 10 years, do you THINK that your TC pedals will have current drivers to use then??? Will they have current firmware updates??? I don't. Technology is still growing very fast. In the last few years, Apple changed from Lightening to Thunderbolt (or the other way, I can't remember which, I am not an Apple guy), USB2.0 is being replaced by USB-3. Hell, even HDMI may be getting replaced by something else, who knows, but I heard rumor of it somewhere (I usually don't put much faith in rumors, so I don't completely stand behind that and made sure to clear that up with you guys).

The MFX world has been rocked a few times too, each time becoming obsolete. AXE-FX shook the world. Then AXEFX 2 really shook things up again a short while later. Then the Kemper Profiler changed the world with amp cloning, Then Line 6 was running behind with the HD500 series, and put out Then Line 6 put out the HELIX. Then a short time AX-8 came out. Then the Atomic Amplifire came out for $600 with a hell of an impact at a friendly price and extreme power. They released a new one too recently with more switches. These timelines may be off a little bit, but you get the point. Thangs are a chaingin'.

Personally I don't use modeling, but If i were to tell you that it isn't great, I would be a dirty rotten liar. If I didn't own 21 tube amplifiers (yes I know I have a lot of amps), I would be gunning at a Kemper or AXE to be honest. Saying they sound great would be an understatement.

"OK trashed, TCE just makes pedals, none of that snazzy SNAX shenanigans"

To that I respond, "Yes it is that same shenanigans."

Technology grows, the old is replaced with the new. That is a fact of life in our modern society.

Will TCE follow through? maybe they will for a while. BUT it won't forever. There are thousands of thousands of pedals STILL out there from the 50's and 60's. Way more BOSS and EHX and MXR and Ibanez/Maxon from the 1980's-ish. They still work.

Fact of life the the Toneprint WILL EVENTUALLY be UNSUPPORTED. My pedal board will live forever, TCE will be swept to the side.

/Trashed out.

Monday, March 27, 2017

2017-03-27 HUGE NEWS!

Here you go. Here is a chance for you to purchase one of my early pedals for $10 USD shipped (only in the 48 states). 

They are based off of the bazz fuss schematic.

All I am looking to recoup is parts and shipping. I am still in the learning phase, just selling to buy more parts.

WHAT these pedals are? Nasty fuzzes. one pot two jacks and a 9V hookup. Good range and gain out of them, and once you plug them in hold on to your hat!

THESE  pedals are in sturdy industrial hard plastic housings with a metal plate on top.

THERE ARE NO SWITCHES. Why? One switch costs more than the price i have in parts invested in THE ENTIRE PEDAL already.

I figure about $6 in parts including housing and $4 for shipping sounds fair.

I am learning and these are what i would consider a basic PROTOTYPE. The money from these sales will simply be used to buy more parts.

IF you are interested email me at and i would love to get one of these out to you!

THANK you all to everybody who has read my blog faithfully and the TRASHED empire is only growing.


Saturday, March 25, 2017

2017/03/25 Nitrocellulose -vs- Polyester Finishes

Welcome to the world of the Trashed lifestyle, come in on the subject, I usually don't bite.


The problem is that there are a lot of strong opinions. There is some cork-sniffers that will start bitching right away. BUT... maybe I am a cork-sniffer myself. Oh-well.

I am not going to get into the chemical makeup and application of either, you can Google that yourself.

There are a few pre-requisites on this though. First off, some are hand sprayed and some are done by machine. Some coats are thicker than others, some poly seem thicker, and some are really thick and i hate that. The 'stickiness' is irrelevant between the two, as you can go over the back of the neck with some #0000 steel wool to get it slipperier. *IF you do this make sure you have your pickups taped over so you don't get metal dust in there*

I own twenty-ish guitars at the moment and five are nitro (all Gibsons). What i love about nitro, is that feels much smoother and silkier on the back of the neck. Its a beautiful feeling to slide down the neck on a properly finished nitrocellulose neck. 

My poly guitars, (at this point mostly Ibanez Prestiges and USA Fenders), feel great too. In my opinion the best feeling poly necks are done on the Ibanez Prestiges. They play well, and applied thin. USA and fenders are pretty good too, but some i will take the finish off of the back of the neck and apply a rubbed on finish, which I love too.

So over a decade ago, I had this Washburn X-50 PRO. It seemed as if the finish was so thick that the body was suffocated by poly. It was dead sounding. A few months later, I chipped it. I will be damned if the finish wasn't as thick as truck bed-liner. I ended up selling the guitar shortly after, thoroughly disgusted. That is one reason I don't buy cheap poly guitars.

Nitro DOES WEAR though, and it can be fast. I do not have my former #1 Gibson (not on me at the moment), but a lot of the finish is through, but it got beat for EIGHT years. The only reason I am not using that guitar is that it needs a re-fret (if I get lucky I may get by with a level and crown). Nitro also checks/cracks if exposed to the harsh elements, I have that on there too. BUT the neck is just yummy. sooo damn yummy. One thing about nitro is that it is more breathable and to me it feels more natural, and only feels better with time.

Some say nitro is thinner SO it sounds better, I call bullocks on that. Poly is more durable on the surface and doesn't scratch on the surface as easily. Nitro is easier to repair, which IS a good thing. I have never seen a nitro finish as thick as a thick poly finish.

In conclusion, send your hate-spam.

Cheers, Trashed.

Saturday, March 18, 2017

2017-03-18 Time to Get De-laid...


This is about delays. 

"Trashed, why the hell do I want a delay?"

I respond, "It doesn't delay you at all as you would think if you didn't know. Come on guys."

"OK Trashed, what does it do then."

"Strap on your seat belts ladies and gentlemen, this may change your world."

To that I hear silence echoing. WAIT! that is what a delays do!

There are two different types of delays. Analog and digital. What is the difference? The analog came out first and used a BBD chip. What is BBD? Bucket Brigade Device. Think of it like a bunch of people transferring buckets down a line to put out a fire. BANG! that is it. The good BBD chips have been long out of production. Thankfully, one of my favorite pedalbuilders, Malekko bought a metric-freaking-ton of them a few years ago. Most modern builders either don't have any and fake it (bad bad companies, shame on you). Analog delays decay naturally and the decay is the glory of it. They also commonly have some form of modulation to them (usually switchable). It is typically like a little bit of controllable chorus type thing. They flat out kick ass. 

Digital delays have pure straight repeats without coloring the tone of the repeats. Boss makes some nice ones, especially a some of the earlier models. DD-3, DD-6, DD-20, etc. They give you nice and clean repeats. Think the Edge from U2 (although he nauseates me), everything trails neat. There are a lot of digital delays that have a tap tempo. THAT is the best thing going for digital delays IMO. So you tap it a few times and it matches the tempo so you can get exactly that length of delay. Digital delays do have their place in most every rig.

"OK Trashed, so what do I need?"

To that I respond, a few of each.

Here lies the danger though. A LOT of companies make delay pedal with something like 'analog voiced' or 'analog simulated modes'. You dirty, dirty, bastards. That makes me want to vomit. That does me no good. You may like them, but that is a big 'no no' in my book.

I really like Malekko. Great builds, good guys who STILL have some original BBD chips. I have four Ekko 616's, a 616 Lo-Fi. Two really nice features on the Malekko's is that they have switchable buffered and true bypass. Also switchable modulation, speed and depth for the modulation - RIGHT OUT ON THE TOP OF THE PEDAL. That is what I call features! There is an internal trim-pot for volume as well.

EHX's older delays, Deluxe Memory Man, etc. are very nice too and some are analog with a digital trigger for tap tempo, which can be the best of both worlds. Another decent common delay is the MXR Carbon Copy. I just don't like MXR though (yes that is bias). There is only ONE modulation switch, but they are far from bad. Honestly I may pick one up if i need another delay.

Make sure to type some hateful/spam comments on the bottom!



Thursday, March 2, 2017

2017/03/02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation


This is a post as to why I think and capable musician should be able to play on any guitar.

At the moment i have twenty-ish guitars, mostly high end type of stuff, but nothing too crazy, mainly Ibanez Prestiges, Gibsons and USA Fenders. I don't own any cheap guitars other then a Mexican Strat and a pair of Korean Fender Showmasters (sweet guitars by the way).

I can pick up any of my guitars (lets NOT talk about electronics now, that may come later, maybe not), and play any of them equally well. There are some obvious restrictions regarding how many frets/trem or no trem, etc, that do limit, but that isn't what I am talking about. I can (and frequently do) sweep arpeggios on Telecasters, and play blues on Ibanez'. Not a big deal, but ironically the Ibanez' are great for some SRV type of stuff. lol.


*IF* you are not able to pick up any guitar (again with some obvious constraints), and play on it well, my friend, you have a LONG ways to go.

I can show up to a gig or open mic or anything and get the job done with anything. It still lies true even if i don't bring a guitar with me, it doesn't matter what is there. The only case I wouldn't show up without a guitar is if I am just stopping at a dive bar and here some music and walk in and see what it is about. Most cases I know at least one person there. The dive bar scene is a small world around here. So there is ALWAYS somebody who would let me play their guitar if need be, even just for a few minutes or a song or two. It could be an ES335, a Rickenbacker, or a POS Squier whatnot, but I can get the job done.

You cannot call yourself a *guitarist* if you can only preform on one guitar, that makes you just a degenerate low level entry musician. The world is huge, and if that 'one' guitar is the only guitar you can play on, to put it nicely you are screwed and won't succeed. I just say that because that 'one' guitar is not always going to be with you wherever you go.

To sum it up, try some different guitars, own some different guitars, and be able to play on all and any of those guitars, then you will be successful.

Brothers, the philosophy is over, have a good weekend.

Thanks for reading,


Monday, February 27, 2017

2016-02-27 How Much Do You Actually Need? RANT GET IN ON IT!

First off, this isn't referring to having how many amps and guitars do you need, because we all know that there is always another one.

This is referring to features on an amp.

"So Trashed... Isn't it great to have everything? More versatility?"

To that I respond with "Not always."

What sparked this thought was the Mesa Road King II. Four channels, switchable output tubes on the fly, four effects loops, yada, yada yada. It is nice, but is that what you actually need?

I have a Fryette SIG:X, Which has three channels, three modes for each and a million knobs and switches and a built in foot-switchable boost built in. It is a nice amp IMO one of the finest. HOWEVER... I don't like tweaking a million things, and I lost a little bit of interest in it. I have it dialed in like a champ and use just those settings. In other words, I hardly need any of the features it has, but it sounds good and it does its job.

I also have a Mesa mkIV which is a sweet amp. I love it, very versatile, and it has a million knobs too. i keep it dialed in, use the settings I use. The only thing i need with that amp is an OD, which makes it even more functionally. Again more flexibility than i ever use.

My Mesa Trem-o-Verb (Dual Rectifier), has two channels and two modes per channel. I have one set on the 'blues' setting and the 'Vintage High-Gain' mode. It also has built in reverb and tremolo. All I need with that amp to compete with anything is to put a Paul C. Timmy out front. It gets me everything I would need.

My most used amp is my Orange Rockerverb 50mkI. Two channels and Reverb. I run a bunch or pedals into it and through the loop (as it is my main amp at the moment), and I get clean blues, dirty blues, nasty high gain, and stoner metal. It is a royal beast. [off topic, but Oranges LOVE Zendrives). It kills.

I have a feeling that most of you all don't really get under the hood as far as amps go, and I would NEVER try to troubleshoot a SIG:X. Too much shit to deal with. I can pop open a Valve King or Blue Voodoo or DSL and usually can fix it without too much of a headache.

So, think before you buy. You very well may not need all of the features, and hell maybe an OD pedal or two would give your more functionality that plugging straight into a three channel.

I want to make one point, I do love amps packed with features. I have a few and enjoy them very much so. My point is that most people probably don't use half of what you have.


Trashed out.

Tuesday, February 21, 2017

2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50!

Addicts of the Fender Stratocaster - this MAY change your life!

"So Trashed, what is going to get me a killer tone out of my strat for $50? That is less than the price of a shitty pickup!"

"Fasten your seat-belt bros, here we go!"

What is it? Here ya go! the"Fender Pre-Amp Mid Boost Kit." There are two main components in the kit. the TBX control, and the variable knob controlled 25db mid boost. You may be familiar with this setup if you have tried a Eric Clapton Strat, as it comes that way directly from Fender.

This installation was on a Mexican Std. Strat (MIM) from around 1995. As you likely may know, the pickups are far from ideal. I picked up the strat for $175 a few years ago. Its actually one of my favorite Strats as far as feel and the neck go (I have owned a shit-ton of them). However the tone was lacking.

The TBX allows you to cut both treble and bass, and there is a stop in the middle of the control at the neutral location. Alone it works wonders. If you only have ~$15 this will make a nice difference as well (it is stock on some USA Strats if I recall correctly). It is great at taming the bridge pickup and making it usable.

The bread and butter of this though is the boost. It goes from normal on the minimum setting to a searing boost all the way which WILL cause some good breakup on a tube amp. This control RARELY need to be up all the way for MY purposes. In other words, its got some cojones to it.

The setup I use most often is a cut off of the treble and the boost up half way with the volume knob on the neck pickup. Its dark and has bite and is really smooth and liquid. The bridge pickup is usuable for once too!!!

"Whoa! Trashed that sounds really cool!"

To that I reply "You bet you're ass it is!"

Now lets move on. The only thing was that the installation was a bitch. I have done a lot of tech work and that is rare for me to say to be honest. The two wiring diagrams that Fender included are shit. Absolutely useless. I had to do a lot of searching to find something that was better laid out and I found one after a few minutes**. If you are not experienced with electronics, and haven't done anything like this before, I would send it to a tech. It would still be well worth it IMO if you are unable to. However, if you can solder and have time, I see no reason that I would not attempt it. 

Fitting the 9V battery in the Strat and the PC board was relatively easy just with a little bit of messing around. You must keep in mind though that Fender routes a lot of their Strats differently. Incidentally mine was one of the smallest routes and I still got it it in, so nothing to worry about. The only PITA factor is that you have to take the pickguard off to replace the battery. Some people have mounted the battery in the trem cavity with results, but I need all five springs on my tremolo. That could be an option too though. The battery should last a while, just remember to unplug the guitar when not in use (check out my previous blog-

I am telling you that it will change your life. Go out and get one! I will likely be posting a video demo here. So look for it!

Cheers! Trashed.

**If you do this and want the link, shoot me an email and i will link you to it, no problem. The reason that i did not include it here is because it was not made by me and I do notwant to take credit for somebody else's work**.

Friday, February 3, 2017

2017-02-03 Tuners, Tuners, and yes, TUNERS!

Hello dear brethren that wield the honorable ax known as a guitar,

Soooo. Tuners. Easy right? Maybe not.

There are three types of common tuners.

1. Clip-on tuners.
2. Pedal Tuners.
3.Shitty plug-in tuners.
4.AND, Don't for get your trusty smart phone!

"So Trashed, I like my tuner and its one of those tuners that are regarded as 'shitty' cheap plug in tuners. It works fine for me, Why do you call it 'shitty'?"

I respond with a simple phrase "I guess you are a little under informed or you aren't the sharpest tool in the shed." Mic drop. OHHH YEAH!

So what do YOU need? Well, you are damn lucky that I am going to take the time out of my busy day and tell you.

1. Clip on tuners. They are very handy to have. You can have it on your headstock and tune without needing to make noise, AND you don't have it in your pedal chain, so less shit you have to hook up. It is handy for every instrument, from ukuleles to cellos, which is very convenient if you play multiple instruments. The short comings? Two main ones, they can fall off and break. I have broken two of three falling onto the tile/stage/etc. The second is if you are trying to tune and there is a lot of bass noise from the bass guitar that is loud, they get all messed up. That only happened to me *once* and then I wised up a bit. The GOOD thing is that they are cheap.

2. Pedal tuners. They are, in my opinion the most flexible. Theyare what any person from a guy jamming at an open-mic to a pro touring the world. They are accurate, easy, fast AND nothing can interrupt them other than a shoddy cable [for the record I use Korg Pitchblacks]. The only downfall is that it needs to be on a pedal board. They are small, so its not a big deal, but it is adding another cable to the chain and you have to power it. That for me is not a big deal for me. I have a [Korg Pitchblack]tuner on each of my three big pedalboards. One thing you don't have to worry about the better ones is they are buffered bypass, so it WILL NOT kill your tone, and may actually help with keeping a true signal to the next pedal. One benefit is that some pedal tuners have is that SOME have a power out. That is nice because you can power a few pedals with it, but the power is different with different tuners. For example I could power my OD, chorus, and delay thorough it, so I didn't even need a second power supply. THAT is handy!

OK. Let us move on to those (to put it nicely) junk plug-in tuners.

3. Plug-in tuners. They can tune AND be accurate, BUT [you knew a but was coming], they have a HUGELY LIMITED range of use. You have to plug the damn thing in every time. If it has an output, it is junk and kills you signal. That is IF you are dumb enough to put it into a chain. MASSIVE tone-suck. They can only tune guitar/bass/acoustic-electrics, which won't help in some situations. AND they break when dropped.

4. Cell phone tuners. DON'T underestimate the convenience, but know the limitations. If I am sitting around my house playing alone, I use it all the time. They are extremely handy to have around. They have HUGE limitation though. If you have other noise, it won't be accurate, etc. I don't use them for recording either. Why? I trust the accuracy of other tuners more when it comes down to cutting a track.

"SO Trashed, what do YOU use?"

EVERYTHING but the shitty plug in tuners. They all have a purpose. Sitting around jamming? Smart phone. Gigging? Pedal. Acoustic instruments and emergency? A clip on tuner. Why? They are cheap and fit in a gig bag easily. I picked up five Snark clip-on tuners for $5 a POP on flash sales, they are nice to have around. I have three Pictchblacks, and they are what I use most. There are some other types of tuners that I did not talk about, rack tuners, strobe tuners, polyphonic tuners, etc. I am keeping this basic and for the common-folk.

Well, Cheers!


Saturday, January 21, 2017

Orange Dual Terror Power Tube Swap (maybe a little bit on the VLOG side ...

HERE Y'ALL GO! It's a new video. Kind of bloggy, little ranty, and just a walk through.

This is my first attempt at a more 'complex' video (that could be a little stretch).

ENJOY! a blog on this video will be up in a few days with some more ranting and info.

Friday, January 13, 2017

2017-01-11 - Sometimes Ya Gotta' Pay to Play

Dear Tone Brothers.

I have something to tell you of utmost importance. Some things in life aren't cheap. Good tone ISN'T.

I am not slandering those with a small budget, but if you stick with it, you will pay.

Those solid-state (also know as transistor amps) are not going to make you sound like your rock 'god'. I don't care how good you are if you are playing on a Marshall M10 watt combo, you won't exactly sound like a professional. WATCH THIS STATEMENT: You may PLAY like a professional, but it isn't going to SOUND professional (as in studio, or gig, etc.). Don't get me wrong, paying like a professional is definitely an achievement and something to be proud of, but so is good tone.

(Trashed kicks the dust off of his boots and continues)

Are tube amps the end-all for tone? No. 

Personally they are for me (I have 19 quality tube amps), and I love the suckers.

Do you need tubes to sound like a 'professional'? No. 

If you are on the way up, an amp is the core of your tone. $400 used gets you a great combo in the right market. I am referencing a Peavey 6505+ combo, Marshall DSL40c combo, Fender Hot Rod Deluxe combo, etc., but there are tons. That $400 will be WELL spent.

Lets talk about guitars. Your $100 Squier Strat, is a viable instrument with a little work. Your $100 Epiphone LP Special (IMO) is trash-can bound in time. It depends on what guitar to a degree, but at that price the quality is generally pretty low across the board.

So Trashed - WHY do you want to spend a little more on a guitar? 

There are a bunch of reasons. Typically mid-level instruments stay in tune better, are of higher quality regarding fit and finish, the fretwork is notably better, the hardware is a little better. They will just feel better in your hands, if you are transitioning form a cheap guitar, and you play a mid level guitar, you will feel the difference right away. It isn't something I can really describe, its just a vibe.

I am going to stick to the sub $400 used budget. Ibanez RG's (without tremolos), Epiphone Les Paul Standard, Fender Mexican Strat. They will all play well with a little set-up, and sound much better. If you are obsessive, you may want to get a new nut fit for it, maybe a fret-level and crown. However for me? I haven't done that on any cheap guitars.

Is $800 a lot to invest in a past time/hobby? To me, not a whole lot. I can probably think of a dozen more hobbies where you invest more in mid level equipment. Also for most of my readers, they are beyond the entry phase to be researching.

Pay to Play.



*I have a bunch of disclaimers here. The guitars and amps I referenced are just really common guitars and amps that you can find anywhere. In most of those cases they can be found cheaper. I posted those for a broad audience, a basic 'metal' rig, a 'rock' rig, and more of a 'clean' amp for other things. However, they are ALL gig-worthy.

Monday, January 9, 2017

2017-01-09 Locking Tuners


1. They sound handy, don't they?
2. Your guitar stays way better in tune than standard tuners, right?
3. You don't need a locking nut for Floyd Roses do you?
4. They are less likely to fail aren't they?
5. They are far superior, aren't they?

1. To some (who haven't experienced the bastards).
2. Not really. Maybe a *little* bit if at all. FYI guitar tuners are NOT the root of most causes.
3. Hmmmm... Sounds great,but unfortunately, NOPE.
4. No difference.
5. That is an opinion, and NOT MINE.

So now we have debunked some bullshit lets go on, Trashed is ready to rant.

To frame the experience with locking tuners, i have had Sperzels, Grover, Fender, and whatever came on a Charvel I had. That pretty much covers the turf. They don't stay in tune better, in fact my Sperzel's broke in a few weeks, the clamp that goes in the middle of the tuner got stuck in there and I could not even get the string out. I like Grover more than the other brands, and they are the most tolerable. Gotoh makes the best IMO, but I don't have a lot of experience with them on locking tuners, so I will keep my mouth shut. The Charvel ones flat out failed (sent the guitar back and didn't want another, so I bought something else).

Ok, Trashed, "So if they are sooooo bad, why do the make them anyway?

My smart-ass response: "Kia still makes cars, don't they?"

OK, lets be serious, people buy them.

Now for a disclaimer, some people do prefer them, this is MY OPINION.


They make it faster to change your strings. Seriously. that is plus, a lot more wrapping and maybe a little less stretching needing to be done... but, is it worth it? Not for me. I have never had reliability issues with any traditional tuners, my preference is Gotoh or Schaller, and following those, Grover.

Glad that is over.

Be sure to add some hate-spam to my wonderful blog,